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There should be so many roses in the garden that you have enough energy and time to take care of each. This statement by one of the flower lovers is especially true when this beautiful but thorny shrub does not shed its leaves for the winter. Do I need to delete them manually? What are the causes of the problem? And is this a problem at all?
Leaves on shoots often remain until spring on many types and varieties of roses. This may not be normal, but it is a habitual phenomenon for most flower growers. Among the reasons:
A common occurrence - a rose hibernates with leaves
The opinion of most gardeners: it is advisable to cut off leaves that have not fallen in the fall, but if this has not been done, then nothing terrible will happen. Situations in which leaves need to be removed:
Pruning old leaves is the prevention of disease. However, if the rose has signs of powdery mildew, black spot and other fungal lesions, then removing the leaves alone is not enough. Indeed, during this procedure, spores could crumble or fall from the instrument to the ground and shoots. After pruning, be sure to treat the bush and the soil under it with 3% ferrous sulfate solution or 3% Bordeaux mixture.
What if you have a whole rose garden of tens or even hundreds of roses? You cannot cut each leaf by hand. And in this case, there are tips from experienced ones:
If a rose hibernates in a dry shelter, then it does not matter with leaves or not: fungi develop only in dampness
There are defoliants drugs that cause artificial leaf fall. Magnesium chlorate is used for roses. However, the instruction, like the drug itself, is very difficult to find even on the Internet, it is sold in bulk for industrial use: cotton plants and vineyards are sprayed from airplanes. Therefore, it is better to use iron sulfate, which not only causes leaf fall, but also disinfects shoots and the ground. Whichever method you choose, fallen or trimmed leaves must be collected and burned.
The main disadvantage of wintering roses with leaves is the possibility of developing diseases on them. If the plant does not get sick, tolerates winters well without shelter, then you do not need to cut the leaves. In other cases, it is better to remove them, treat the bush with a fungicide, and arrange a dry winter for it.
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In winter varieties of apple trees, the leaves can remain green until late autumn, but normally, with the onset of frost, they should fly around, perhaps without even having time to turn yellow. If winter is very close, and this is not happening, something was done wrong. The reasons for this phenomenon are varied, for example:
In the fall, the tree must prepare for winter, the young shoots must grow woody, and not continue to grow. With the arrival of autumn, the leaves should begin to turn yellow and fall off by the onset of winter along with the pathogens that settled on them during the summer period, and the tree should go into a state of relative dormancy. Otherwise, not completely lignified branches will freeze in winter and die, and the pathogens remaining on the leaves will only help them in this.
Normally, the leaves should begin to turn yellow even when the late apples are not yet fully harvested.
Fall is the process of dropping leaves and buds by a houseplant, caused by natural causes or the presence of adverse factors.
Signs of falling leaves:
If the number of affected and fallen leaves is growing steadily, then it is necessary to understand the reasons and take measures to save the flower.
Experts and experienced gardeners know that even trees unprepared for wintering can be helped. The first step is to develop frost resistance. For this you need:
In early spring, plants that have stood with foliage on the branches all winter will need to be fed with potassium sulfate, and in the summer they will need to spray the crown with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Thus, the process of preparing trees should be started in advance so that they do not get lost with the natural circulation. Only in this case the tree will meet strong frosts, and the next season will give a good harvest.
Roses require moderate watering. Waterlogging of the soil leads to oxygen starvation. The leaves begin to turn yellow from below, the entire leaf plate becomes yellow.
Reduce watering. And if the roses are planted in heavy clay soil, transplant them to a drier and lighter soil.
Perhaps, on the contrary, your rose lacks moisture and watering is insufficient, the leaves turn yellow and curl and fall off.
In this case, it is necessary to increase the frequency and volume of watering and mulch the near-trunk circle to prevent the soil from drying out.
Reasons why indoor rose sheds buds:
To help the plant, you need:
A rose bush blooms magnificently in the garden, but at some point the harmony is broken - the juicy green leaves brighten, dry, crumble. There are many reasons why the leaves of a rose turn yellow. If yellowing occurs in the fall, this is a natural aging process; in the summer, the plant needs urgent help.
Roses are especially important for flower growers, they are the pride and beauty of a flower bed, a front garden in the country. Culture grows only with close supervision. Yellow foliage is a signal of starvation of the bush or the result of an error in care. The actions of insects and mites also lead to disease, followed by drying of the leaves.
If a rose has yellow leaves in summer, this should alert the grower.
Note! Domestic specimens will not escape fate: a Chinese rose, miniature decorative varieties. Most often this happens due to improper transplantation, lack of air humidity, lack of nutrition in the substrate.
Roses can turn yellow for reasons beyond the control of the grower. Cloudy weather for long days provokes the formation of a yellow leaf if the crop was originally planted in a shaded place on heavy soils. The bush begins to turn yellow from the lower tier, where less light enters. The owner, if possible, removes interfering objects or overgrowth, but sometimes this is not enough.
More on other reasons.
A bright, well-ventilated place is chosen under the rose garden, but without drafts. When the air stagnates, infectious diseases develop:
Yellowness is also from pests. The most common:
Note! Weevils, leafhoppers and scoops also run the rose garden, feed on plant juices. As a result, gardeners observe yellow leaves falling off.
Watering roses requires moderate
Roses are moody plants. With magnificent flowering, they respond to proper care. A violation of agricultural technology leads to yellowness and leaf fall:
Important! Street flowers need to be pruned correctly. Dirty tools, untreated cut sites become a breeding ground for harmful fauna and, as a result, yellow foliage.
Lack of micro- and macroelements plays an important role in flower development
Macronutrients are inorganic chemicals. They are found in plant cells, but get there from outside, they are not synthesized by the body. There are 11 of them in nature.
The most important macronutrients for a rose, without which the leaves turn yellow:
Note! Macronutrients are introduced not only into the ground, foliar feeding is very effective. Leaves and branches absorb solutions and recover quickly. In this case, the composition of the soil does not change.
Trace elements are needed by plants in negligible amounts - less than one thousandth of the green mass, but they are also not produced by the body. Without them, the exchange process does not take place, so they are necessary for the rose.
For your information! Manganese and iron are deficient in alkaline soils. The acidity of the soil is reduced by coniferous litter or peat.
Micro- and macroelements are replenished with complex fertilizers such as humate.
An experienced florist, by the state of the green part of the plant, will understand why the leaves of a rose turn yellow and fall off in summer. Yellowing is different.
This is the job of ticks and sucking insects. They attack the petioles and the leaf blade. You can notice the appearance of a tick by small punctures on the leaf plate. Microscopic moving black dots appear on the back side.
The plant cells are destroyed, the leaves stop participating in photosynthesis, become unviable, and fall off. They fight by means of actellik, neoron.
Another reason is the lack of iron. The element is replenished with complex or special preparations.
Note! Sudden changes in temperature also adversely affect the state of the leaves of the culture.
Less light falls on the lower tier. Perhaps the bush is very thickened or nearby flowers growing blocking the light.
Harmful insects, whose larvae hibernate under the bush, also begin their activity from below. You can prevent their activity by removing fallen leaves from under the bush in the fall. In the spring, it is worth scattering wood ash over the soil.
The lower leaves are most often damaged
It is worth paying attention to the watering regime. Although roses are easier to tolerate drought than waterlogging, a chronic lack of moisture leads to leaf folding. It turns yellow, dries up, curls off the edges.
Important! Young plantings and climbing varieties need special supervision.
Spotting indicates a lack of micro- and macroelements of the bush rose, the appearance of infections, pathogenic organisms. The leaf is spotted unevenly with powdery mildew, magnesium deficiency.
Black spot and jaundice are the scourge of the rosary. Only a systematic struggle brings results.
The phenomenon should not be allowed to take its course. Measures are taken immediately to save the plant and the entire flower garden. Diseases and pests spread rapidly if left unchecked.
Fitosporin is a universal remedy for many plants
A strong, well-developed bush resists attacks from harmful flora. First of all, they take care of the health of the rose.
Important factors in this regard:
A special condition is feeding. In the spring, nitrogen and phosphorus compounds (nitrate, urea) are introduced, in the summer - potassium (potassium sulfate). It is convenient to use complex fertilizers for roses (for example, "Gloria"). Introduce at the root and on the sheet. You can consult in the shops of the agricultural complex.
Long-acting pocon is suitable for lazy flower growers. It is enough to use the product once according to the instructions, and the plant is provided with the necessary nutrition for the entire season.
Traditional methods are welcome, for example, just making an infusion of nettles and other weeds. The grass is poured with water, kept for 7 days, stirring occasionally. A liter of infusion is mixed with a bucket of water, poured under a bush.
For your information! To stimulate the growth of roses, yeast diluted in liquid is used.
The prevention of the appearance of pests is the cleaning of the flower garden from the fallen and dead plant parts. They weed and loosen the ground under the bushes. Traditional Bordeaux liquid and copper sulfate cope well with the treatment of the main types of infectious diseases, serve for pest control. The first time you need to process it in the spring, then they monitor the appearance of unexpected guests.
Also, infusions of garlic and onions, potato tops are used to scare away and destroy insects. In flower shops, contact and systemic fungicides for fungal diseases are purchased: gamair, phytosporin.
If yellow leaves appear on rose bushes in June, growers are looking for the reason. The simplest may be the lack of water. Yellowing is caused by infectious and fungal diseases, harmful insects, lack of minerals. The leaf is examined, the source is found, and action is taken. Alternative methods are effective, or the necessary chemicals are bought in stores.
With the onset of autumn, the green color of the leaves of fruit crops changes to yellow. Some of them turn red, others red. The reason for this is the destruction of chlorophyll, which gives green foliage. The concentration of this substance in plant tissues is influenced by the length of daylight hours. With the onset of autumn, it decreases. The effect of cooling and changes in the level of humidity increases, since in the winter months the tree does not receive it in full.
If the apple trees are not thrown off the foliage for the winter, snow sticks to them. Then the likelihood of damage to the branches under the accumulated weight increases. In frosts, trees do not need leaves. They are already dry and do not provide nutrients. On the contrary, through them the plant loses moisture. Then, with the onset of spring, it dries up.